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Why Northern Spain’s Best-Kept Secret Is Asturias

  • Foto del escritor: Rachel K. Monroe
    Rachel K. Monroe
  • 23 jun
  • 4 Min. de lectura

Actualizado: 7 jul

I didn’t have a plan, really. I just knew I had a few weeks in Spain and wanted to go somewhere green. I typed “quiet places in Spain” into Google. Asturias came up. I’d never heard of it.

No influencers. No beach parties. No direct flights from New York. That actually made me click.

So I booked a ticket. Figured I’d stay four days. I stayed nine.

	Charming rural hotel in Asturias countryside
Picture Keith Mapeki

Wild Beaches Without the Crowds


I’m not great at finding hidden beaches. Usually someone’s already there with a drone or bad music. But Playa del Silencio felt untouched. The walk down was quiet, the sea loud, the cliffs tall. No shops, no lifeguards—just space and salt.

I stayed over an hour without moving. Just listened. The name makes sense.


Coastal Towns That Still Feel Real


I had no plan here either. Just drove until I saw the sea.

Cudillero is this stacked-up fishing village that looks like it could fall into the water if it leaned too hard. Bright homes climbing the hill, cats in windows, and blue-painted fish on the sidewalk that led me through town.

I got lost. Didn’t care. Ate fabes con almejas at Casa Julio (still thinking about the broth). Poured cider from high up like the locals. Missed the glass. Still drank it.


Hiking in the Picos de Europa


The Picos de Europa don’t shout. They just exist, and let you walk through them.

I went up to the Covadonga Lakes early. Fog everywhere. Couldn’t see much. It was great. Walked the trail around the lakes alone. Cold. Quiet.

Later I hiked the Ruta del Cares, a trail literally cut into a cliff. Goats watched me like I was in their way. Some parts had tunnels. Some were just... drop-offs. I’ve done a lot of hikes. This one made my stomach flip. In a good way.


Hiking the Cares Trail in Picos de Europa National Park
Picture Juan Gómez

Gijón vs. Oviedo: Two Cities, Two Vibes


Gijón is salt and noise. I walked the long San Lorenzo beach in wind so strong I had to hold my hood up. In Cimavilla, people laughed loud, ate fried squid, and poured cider like it was sport.

Oviedo? Calmer. Cleaner. I went to Santa María del Naranco, an old pre-Romanesque church on a hill. Just sat for a bit. Not much else. That was enough.

There's a local market too. Real people, real vegetables. No one selling dreamcatchers.



Hidden Spots You Might Miss (But Shouldn’t)


Playa de Gulpiyuri – A beach in a meadow. Inland. Tide-fed. Weird and perfect. Near Naves.alt: "Playa de Gulpiyuri, inland tidal beach in Asturias"

  • Bufones de Pría – When the tide is high, the sea shoots through holes in the cliffs like a geyser. Feels alive. Go during bad weather. It's better.alt: "Bufones de Pría, sea blowholes in Asturias"

  • Ecomuseo La Ponte (Santo Adriano) – It’s not flashy. But the walk there? Gorgeous. It’s where culture and green collide. Guides are volunteers. They care.

  • Museo de la Sidra (Nava) – You learn more than you think. Tastes included. Also? Sidra was recently declared UNESCO cultural heritage. Asturias is proud of that.



What (and Where) to Eat in Asturias


This isn’t a light-food place. And thank God for that.

  • Fabada asturiana – Beans, chorizo, blood sausage, fat. It hugs your stomach.

  • Cachopo – Imagine schnitzel. Then double it. Then stuff it with ham and cheese.

  • Chorizo a la sidra – Sweet and spicy. No plate ever had leftovers.

  • Arroz con leche – Burned sugar on top. Served cold. You won’t share.

Best fabada? El Ferroviario, Oviedo (no English menu, perfect).


Traditional Asturian fabada with chorizo and morcilla
El Ferroviario- Fabada asturiana


Where to Stay in Northern Spain’s Quiet Gem


Hotel Fruela (Oviedo) – Nice beds. Walkable to cider.

  • Puebloastur Eco Resort (Cofiño) – A view with cows. Fancy, but quiet.

  • La Casona del Viajante – More like staying at your aunt’s place. Warm.

  • Albergue El Peregrín (Llanes) – Budget, but clean and friendly.

Each one had personality. Not just amenities.




Getting Around Asturias Without the Rush

Experience

Location

Worth It?

Time Needed

Playa del Silencio

Cudillero

Yes

1–2 hrs

Covadonga Lakes

Picos de Europa

Yes

Half day

Ruta del Cares

Poncebos–Caín

Yes++

5–7 hrs

Gulpiyuri Beach

Naves

Yes

30 mins

Bufones de Pría

Llames

Yes

1–2 hrs


Asturias = Rain. That’s the Deal.

It rained 4 out of 9 days. That’s normal. It’s why everything’s green.

What to pack:

  • Waterproof jacket

  • Boots (mud’s real)

  • Layers

  • Patience

  • Snacks

Best time to visit: May to early OctoberWorst? Maybe January. Still beautiful, though.



How I Got Around

Landed in Asturias Airport (near Avilés). Small and fast. Rented a car.

Could you take buses? Sure. But if you want the cliffs, beaches, quiet valleys — rent. I stopped when I wanted. That mattered more than speed.


6-Day Travel Itinerary Through Asturias

Day 1: Land in Oviedo. Eat fabada. Wander.Day 2: Covadonga Lakes. Bring a sandwich.Day 3: Cudillero + Playa del Silencio.Day 4: Gijón day. Cider + beach.Day 5: Gulpiyuri + Bufones + Llanes.Day 6: Museum day: Sidra + Ecomuseo. Fly or train out.



Final Thoughts: What You’ll Take With You

Q: Is Playa del Silencio worth visiting?A: Absolutely. No vendors, no noise. Just nature.

Q: When should I visit Asturias?A: Between May and October. Expect rain, but less in summer.

Q: Can I visit Bufones de Pría year-round?A: Yes, but go at high tide or during rough sea for the real show.

Q: Is Asturias touristy?A: No. And that’s its magic.


I didn’t plan this trip. I didn’t expect anything.

But something about Asturias stayed with me. The food, the quiet, the weird sea holes in cliffs. It’s not flashy. It’s not loud. And it doesn’t need to be.

If you’re tired of trying too hard, come here.

 
 
 

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